Day 1,436

İzmir

Now our route into Turkey hasn't been the most obvious one, missing Istanbul completely and having a fair few main roads to cycle on, but there is a reason. We had a parcel to collect. We like to carry a few spares for our bikes and as Tom's was replaced in Germany we needed a few items. Now the cycle touring community is made up of friendly helpful folk and luckily for us one of them was able to help us out. Ian, from Harrogate, who we've been in touch with since he and his wife toured South America, was heading to Turkey and he messaged me to see if we needed any kit brought out from the UK. It was as simple as that. I ordered the spares we needed to be delivered to him and he kindly left them at a hotel in Izmir. 

We still had about 3 days riding to get there. The riding was not that exciting, but I was feeling a bit better after my bout of food poisoning and head down we pushed on. After a long day in the saddle we found a rather unexciting wild camp. Rather a few too many bugs and lots of irritating long grass but well away from the road, fine for one night. The long ride though meant we could reach Izmir the following day. Despite a horrendous head wind we were determined to do it. It was a pretty miserable ride until we approached Izmir. Sat alongside the Aegean Sea we could see our destination from miles away. Turning into a huge bay, riding on a cycle path protected us from the brutal headwind. The last 12 miles were much easier, though I was tempted to save a few and take the ferry across the bay. 

Tom had booked an Airbnb apartment in the Konak old-town district. First though we had to reach it. Not as easy as it sounds, the city is built up into the steep hillside, San Francisco eat your heart out, these roads are steep. So much so that there is actually a lift. The ‘Asansör' built in 1907, funded by a wealthy local man, saves locals and tourists alike a major climb. Our host met us at the elevator, as we still needed to climb a fair bit more and he cheerfully helped carry our bikes up several flights of steps. 

Now Izmir, which us Brits knew by its Greek name, Smyrna, until the 1930s is a place with a long and interesting history. People have lived in the area for over over 8,000 years. The people who have settled here since the Romans reads like a who's who of Empire makers, and they all left their mark. Somehow though we just didn't have the energy for an in-depth exploration. We took a tram to see the Izmir clock tower, a bus and a train to collect our parcel, cycled along the cycle path lining the bay but that was all we had the energy for. 

İzmir Clock Tower

Mainly we rested. You've got to choose your battles and we simply didn't have the energy for Izmir. We visited a bike shop to see if he could find out what was causing Tom’s bike to squeak and swoosh, the jury is still out but we think it was the ‘Snubber’, It’s quiet at the moment and we pray this continues. 

When we left we rode along a quiet road alongside a lagoon with flamingos! The ride really was stunning. The flowers beside the road were out in force, the Morning Glory enchanting us with a stunning display of blue flowers. We ate our lunch in one of our favourite spots, a bus shelter, don't knock it ‘til you've tried it. A seat, a roof to keep off the sun or rain and walls to protect us from the wind. Doesn't take much to make Debs and Tom’s day! 

The route took us on a rollercoaster ride with the stunning Aegean Sea and Greek Islands to our right. The traffic has disappeared and life just doesn't get much better. 

After our dismal effort at exploring Izmir we were determined to make up for it. We were going to hit the cities big time, just ones that no one lives in anymore, it’s how we like them!