Day 1,527

Double gorge-ous

We tore ourselves away from the cheese farm and returned to the Greenway. Our route took us back through Foix, but this time on bikes, not a train. We paused to grab a coffee and admire the stunning castle which dominates the skyline above the town. The Romans were the first to build a fort here, the present castle dates back in parts to the early 10th century. The usual suspects have defended or attacked it over the centuries, Charlemagne and Henry 5th to name just two. By the 15th century it was no longer used for military purposes but instead became a prison. Now it houses a museum. We decided against a ride to see it up close, and ate a cake instead, then returned to the road. 

Not much flat land around here

On we went. Tom had another treat in store, no not more cake but something so rare, there's only one quite like this in the whole wide world! We were going to see the Fontestorbes Fountain. It's a hydrogeological phenomenon of the underground world! What makes it so special you ask? Well it's an intermittent fountain, during the winter months it flows continuously. However in the summer months, roughly following a 90-minute cycle, the fast flow of water slowly eases to a stop, then after a pause the water starts to flow again, and before our very eyes it returns to full force, all by the power of Mother Nature. There are 3 very complicated theories which explain how and why it happens but for us we just enjoyed Mother Nature showing off. 

We returned to the road and found yet another wild camp in the hills. By now we were starting to smell a bit, so the following day we stopped by a water hole, stripped off and cooled off in the water. I'm not sure we smelt any better, especially when we donned our smelly kit, but we certainly felt better. 

Great night skies in the Pyrenees

Now we had a choice, we could stay on a lovely quiet road on a direct route to where we were going, or take a 1,000 foot descent through the narrow Rebeny Gorge, then climb up another 1,000 feet through yet another, the St Georges gorge, to come out pretty much where we started, but after an extra 10 miles or so. No choice really, the route was stunning and worth every foot. 

Being in the Pyrénées we're getting used to the climbing, but after a couple more wildcamps, and lots of sweaty days on the bikes we were definitely in need of a shower and a washing machine. The beautiful weather decided to abandon us. Despite riding past the world’s largest solar furnace, black clouds loomed above us and we could hear thunder in the distance. So rather than camp up on top of a col, we sped downhill to a campsite. We took the decision to book a caravan for two nights to get clean, rest up, and plan. We were under cover with just seconds to spare. We think we've made a decision for where we go next, but a text this morning is making us think everything over just a little bit more!