Day 1,585
Geology
Leaving Uyuni we passed the now familiar sight, a queue of vehicles several miles long waiting patiently for their turn at the petrol station. We hadn't noticed this last year so we had been puzzled at first by the mile-long queues. Bolivia has had some years of an unstable economy after the boom in gas exports in 2010 to 2014, her reserve of dollars now about gone, making imports rare and expensive. For us it has meant it's often cheaper to eat out at local cafes rather than cook our own food.
The riding was easy at first, 20 miles of flat terrain, herds of Llamas been shepherded around, apparently wild vicunas wandering at will, pausing to gaze at these weird humans choosing to propel themselves along on a weird wheeled contraption instead of riding in one of those smoking bus things. The fields were prepared for crops, but all the rivers were completely dry and we wondered how any crops grow in such sandy arid soil. Waiting for the rains apparently.
After that first 20 miles things got interesting. Gone were the flat fields, and suddenly the hills arrived. We were surrounded by a volcanic landscape, with a weird and wonderful rocky scene all around us. The area is dominated by farming and mining, but apart from the ploughed fields, one or two mining settlements, and the odd heavily laden truck we saw few people and the whole landscape seemed empty.
After about 60 miles we found a small side road leading downhill to a farmed area. With the aid of a large rock we managed to pitch the tent, and settled down for the night, the strong winds eased, we watched the sun set over a massive volcano and then got up in the middle of the night to awe at the star filled sky.
The view from the wildcamp - priceless
The following day the landscape became even more dramatic. We were heading into an area of Bolivia known as its ‘Wild West’. The hills turned red, the rock formations were a history lesson of mother earth. There were dramatic canyons, crazy rock shapes created over the millennium by the ever present wind. We climbed and descended time and time again. It was really hard work but the landscape made it all worthwhile. On the first day we stopped for lunch at a tiny shack, the lady in charge quickly cooking up a delicious meal for us. We were able to restock with water and snacks too, as there is mile upon empty mile with no chance to get supplies.
We had planned to stop two nights in Tupiza, just another 60 miles away. A quick glance at the route seemed to promise an easier day, but it was far from it. The climbs just kept on coming, we were getting desperate for food but it was gone 2pm before we reached a small town with one restaurant. Famous in the cycling community for its barbecued chicken we gratefully ate our fill. Just 15 miles to go. The worst of the climbing over we expected an easy ride. How wrong can you be? The wind which had definitely been a help blowing from behind, suddenly became our enemy blowing super strong in front of us. It was almost impossible to keep going. The views saved us, with sand blown pillars, unique to this area, to enjoy. Finally at around 5pm we reached our hotel, The Butch Cassidy Hostel! Tupiza is not called the Wild West for nothing. Most of us know the legend of the ‘Wild Bunch’ led by Robert Parker in the late 1800s. His gang terrorized the Wild West, stealing horses, robbing banks and holding up trains. The Pinkerton Detective Agency were hot on their heels and the USA became too risky for the Wild Bunch. Butch Cassidy, his sidekick the Sundance Kid, Etta Place, Sundance’s girlfriend, all fled and made their way to Bolivia. They settled down in Patagonia together running a ranch with cattle, sheep and horses, no doubt purchased with ill gotten gains. It wasn't to last, they returned to their old ways, Etta headed home, the guys made their way to the kinder climate in Bolivia, finding work in a mine. Eventually on November 3rd 1908 they were said to have robbed the mine’s payroll. Trapped in a nearby house, a gun battle took place, Sundance was fatally wounded and it is believed Butch put him out of his misery and then shot himself. Though it has never been conclusively proved that it was Butch and Sundance, their legend lives on!
A ‘Wild West’ landscape
