Day 1,646
Queulat
It was fantastic to be back on the bikes, and the ride to Queulat National Park was pretty easy, if somewhat damp. There is a campsite in the park but you have to prebook online and be there before 2.30pm and we weren't going to make that, so the fact that they didn't reply wasn't an issue. But where to camp up. It’s illegal to wildcamp in the park, Tom and my maps didn't agree on where the boundary was which didn't help. iOverlander had some suggestions, but the first was pretty grim, just a gap in the trees beside the road, great for a late arrival but not what we wanted. Fortunately just past the park we came across two campsites and were soon booked in for the night. We had a shelter to pitch the tent under, a table and chairs and space for us, plus hot showers and flushing toilets, luxury! Our Swedish neighbours offered us a beer, the rain eased, we could see the glacier, life was good!
The following morning at 9am sharp we were waiting at the gate to hike up to the Hanging Glacier. The Queulat National Park is 595 sq miles of glacier-capped mountains and virgin evergreen forests. The park is said to house the City of the Caesars, a place said to contain untold wealth, sat between two mountains, one full of gold and one of diamonds. Endless myths exist about its existence, so much so that back in 1766, a Jesuit priest, Father Jose Garcia set out to find it. He didn't, but he did come across the stunning hanging glacier that we were on our way to see.
So pleased to get to see the Hanging Glacier
The park has two small icefields with glaciers up to 7 miles long. The Hanging Glacier is within the park’s largest glaciated ice cap. The weather had been exceptionally wet, so most of the hikes within the park were closed, but one very muddy trail was open and with the aid of a small stick, placed very handily by the first steps I was able to haul myself up there. Tom soon left me, he was, as usual, like a kid at Christmas and couldn't wait to get there. Despite my slower progress we had it all to ourselves for a few minutes before other people arrived. Tom’s pictures describe it so much better than I can, and despite it gradually retreating over the years it's still a magnificent sight. Our chance met fellow travellers, Sofia and Bruno, had visited just a few days previously and hadn't been able to see anything. We felt so lucky. Still we had roads to ride so eventually we dragged ourselves away.
Our first challenge was to ride up a very big hill. At just under 7 miles long, with endless steep hairpins, with the steepest section rising nearly 1,700 feet in under 4 miles, it's tough, and to make it that bit more of a challenge it is all gravel. It's a feared section for many but for Tom and I after all these years travelling it wasn't too bad. I managed to stay on my bike all the way up, despite having to ride the steep inside section on the hairpins due to the amount of traffic, more vehicles than we'd seen in days! The descent was tarmac so we had fun flying down that. We passed 4 northbound tourers who looked fully loaded for a long trip. I'm guessing they are heading to Alaska, I felt not the slightest bit of envy. One of them had managed to attach a 3’ Christmas tree to her helmet, as if that climb wasn't hard enough already, atta girl!
Lovely switchbacks
Our destination was a restaurant at Rio Cisnes, where we could camp. By the time we got there both Tom and I were shattered, he'd managed to fall off his heavily loaded bike, using his leg and hand to prevent it from getting damaged. So he was in some pain and pitching a tent didn't appeal. The heavens opened, we could have a bed in a cabana for £20, it even had a wood burning stove which meant Tom could keep a fire going so we could dry out our wet kit and heat up water for endless cups of coffee and make dinner. No choice really and it was simply stunning, the building and the surroundings. We wished it was nearer Christmas and we didn't have a parcel to collect or we'd have stayed put. Bella and Bastion had stayed two days and only left about an hour before we arrived, shame as it would have been awesome to see them again.
We now had just under 100 miles to our Airbnb in Coyhaique. The heavens were pouring water on us with such power and intensity that we really didn't want to leave. Sarah, a northbounder, headed off first, brave girl, and we followed shortly afterwards. Unbelievably the rain eased and after yet another climb, naturally and we were soon stripping off the layers and riding along if not in sunshine at least it was almost dry. After 45 miles we reached a small town, Mañihaules.
After diving into the first restaurant we found, we were starving, we decided to stay put as yep you've guessed it, the rain was falling again. Pim, a girl we'd met on the road, arrived, and we had a nice evening chatting away over a glass of wine. In the morning we had a decision to make, stay on Ruta 7, just 45 miles, but more climbing and gravel, or take the 500. At 55 miles it was longer but with less climbing and crucially it was paved. The 500 it was.
The route was stunning with endless waterfalls, rivers and stunning mountains lining the road. One fairly big climb just before we reached our destination but the views were stunning so the climb flew by. We were also inspired by the shouts of YORKSHIRE, YORKSHIRE, YORKSHIRE. A few days previously, when we had just discovered our second split tyre we had bumped into, @livingonbeans, a couple from Barnsley, but now living in Chile. They had spotted the Yorkshire Flag and chatting away to them was a tonic on a miserable day, thanks!
So we are now in Coyhaique. Snug in our Airbnb. All the tourers we've met are moving on, but we're using the time to catch up on the blog. Fit our new Schwalbe tyres, and plan for the next few weeks. Merry Christmas one and all!
