Day 1,674

Glacier Leones

Well after the stunning experience of the Exploradores adventure we were ready for more! A few miles on from Rio Tranquillo lies yet another side road leading up to the Leones Glacier. In the past a path had been developed, but now the local authorities are discouraging big groups from visiting due to the impact on the environment. Unsure if we could actually get permission to visit we decided to head along a rather sandy and rough track to a campsite and check out the situation. The lovely owner said it was fine, just respect the area, leave no trace and we'd be fine. Just one thing though. The recent rains had left it flooded and she wasn't sure we'd actually get that far.

The road less travelled

It was 12 miles to get near enough for a good view of the glacier, the bikes would take us about 8 miles and we'd need to walk the rest. The track wasn't easy to cycle, a mixture of sand, gravel, big stones and yes, it was flooded in places too.

At one point where a small stream of icemelt had turned into a fast flowing river covering the road we had to dismount and I have to admit, I let Tom do his Action Man bit and carry the bikes across. I found it hard enough coping with the power of the freezing water and the rough surface hidden below. Shortly afterwards we took the decision to leave the bikes hidden just off the path as we felt cycling through more and more flooded sections could cause surface damage. After a mile or so hiking along a beautiful meadow, the trail got interesting.

First there was a rickety wooden bridge over the Mapuche river, a few walk the plank sections, more meadow so flooded it reached over my knees, endless deep muddy puddles, then it got a wee bit Minimal Danger. Bridges which had no hand support, just bits of plank connected to two pieces of rope hanging low over the rushing water. “Go fast and go now” was Tom's advice and it worked, though neither of us loved the experience. 

Then we turned into thick woodland and headed uphill on a narrow steep path with a long drop to the raging river just inches away. With the aid of handily positioned trees, tree routes and rocks we hauled our way along. Then I spotted two ropes and some pieces of wood hanging above a sheer cliff of rock. I turned to Tom and we both questioned if it was sensible to carry on, I mean how many glaciers did we need to see? On closer inspection the bits of wood were the top of a rather ramshackle ladder secured to a tree with the ropes. Tom went first, survived so I bravely followed!

The mountains were drawing us closer

Finally we emerged to yet more meadow, flooded at times but at least our feet remained on solid ground. Then a ramble through some woodland and finally we emerged to see the edge of the Leones Glacier with the huge mountains looming in the distance.

We think we were probably the only humans as far as the eye could see

Glacier Leones - best admired and respected from a good distance we felt

We sat for quite a while just taking it all in, then it was back the way we had come! Fortunately the flooded areas were not quite as deep and the sun had even warmed the glacial water up a bit!

Farewell Leones, you’re fabulous!