Day 1,715
Monasterio de Piedra
One of the most common questions we get asked is which is our favourite country we've visited so far and our answer is Peru, with the Republic of Ireland a close second. However these last few weeks have got me reviewing that answer. Maybe it's the time of year we've visited, but Northern Spain is just such a wonderful place to cycle. We have barely seen a car, ridden on miles of greenways and smooth country lanes. The few vehicles we have come across have been so respectful, cycling has been a joy. We've had no issue finding wildcamp spots and if we need the warmth of a bed for the night then hotels are really good value.
In every village and along most roads we've been able to find potable water, shaded picnic areas and good bars serving tapas and wine. Then there's the views, a history of being fought over, the Brits, the French, obviously the ‘Moors’ and endless small wars between regions have left a landscape full of history. Castles so picture perfect are everywhere. In the towns and villages all the differing cultures have left their mark. The food, oh boy, it's just wonderful, great value and awesome quality. It's somewhere we will definitely revisit again and again.
Every village seemed to have a castle
After leaving Zafra we made our way to the Monastery de Piedra. Getting there was a challenge. At first it was a joy, quiet roads, lots of tiny villages dominated by Zafra-like castles and stunning views all around. Then we reached a closed road sign, well it didn't actually say the word ‘closed’ but it was clear road works were ahead. Our experience has taught us that workmen are usually more than happy to let us through, even if it means pushing around the odd section, so we ignored the signs and continued on.
We are in a fairly deserted area in the Aragon region, so we were somewhat surprised to see that they were creating a dual carriageway. This meant lots of massive vehicles, pounding stone and transporting it out. Lorries, dust, noise, it really wasn't a great place for us to be. We got off the bikes, tried to look as if we had every right to be there, and hugging the edge of the road, or onto the verge we made our way slowly along.
At first the workmen ignored us, then a lorry driver pulled up and explained we really wouldn't be able to get through. We decided to carry on and see what happened. Another worker stopped us, and very firmly told us to go back, we pleaded, turned on the charm, but he explained it wasn't safe. We explained we hadn't fully understood the signage, and why didn't they close the road?
Finally we said we were heading to the Monastery and he relented, but told us to take care. A few hundred yards further on we could hear the rock breaker pounding away, there was lots of space for us but we understood it wasn't ideal. We pulled into a clearing, thinking we might stay there til the workers finished for the night, but then we both spotted a track that bypassed a long section of the road. It was on a Finca, a farm, but there was no gate so off we went. Unfortunately about a mile in we came across signs saying private land, with chains across the track. Did we turn around or go on?
The castle at Olite was particularly impressive
It was a frying pan or fire decision. On we went, and fortunately 20 minutes later we popped back out onto the road, and no workmen at all. A mile or so of downhill and we reached the Monastery and a proper closed road at that end. The bemused workers let us past and we were free. Not a pleasant experience and we weren't comfortable with our decision to push on. It was just frustrating that we didn't get an earlier warning so we could have changed our route without miles of backtracking.
Finally we entered the Monastery de Piedra. Dating from 1194, when Alonso II donated land and an old Arabic castle to the Monks of Poblet. It was here that the first chocolate in Europe was made from beans brought back from South America. The land was developed for farming and fishing, but also they helped lay the foundations for a wonderful garden by taking advantage of its stunning setting.
By 1840 the monks had gone and eventually the property was sold and a hotel created. The gardens are full of lakes, winding paths through the lush landscape, but the star attraction are the waterfalls. The most stunning of these being the 50 metre tall Cola de Caballo, and even better, we could actually view the fall from inside a cave, with massive stalactites, though obviously despite our age, getting wet through was also a major draw. We actually ended up staying the night, a bit of a treat, but the gardens are so vast that they actually close the entrance gate at 4pm, so we had an early night and spent the following morning exploring. Tom was getting inspiration for when we get home, just not sure we can fit waterfalls in!
Our ride from here took us past some gorgeous lakes near the village of Nuévalos, the views, the colour of the water rivalled the best of Patagonia, in the Spring sunshine they were just fantastic. Tom had planned us a few quiet days onwards to the coast and the border with France, unfortunately his bottom bracket had other ideas. We were back with click, click, click. Fortunately we were able to join a greenway on a disused railway line to a small town with a great bike shop which happily fitted Tom's new bottom bracket.
Peace returned. We made it to Pamplona, but as we'd stayed before we pushed on. The disused railway line evolved into Eurovelo Route 1, which links from Portugal to North Cape, via Spain, France, England and onwards. We had no traffic but boy we got some steep hills, and after a few wonderful days riding, passing yet more stunning castles and churches we were running out of Spain. Digging deep we made it to Irun, crossed a bridge and suddenly found ourselves in France. I felt bereft, I wanted to turn straight around, it was too fast, too sudden. I wasn't ready to leave Spain. It's getting close to decision time, we need to book a ferry and head on home, but when and where that will be hasn't quite been decided.
