Day 1,751

Homeward bound

Our arrival back in the UK was a wee bit frustrating. The couple we'd met in France were on a bikepacking set up and were able to manoeuvre their bikes between the cars and trucks so they were in the prime position to leave the ferry. The doors opened and they were off. With our wider loads we had to wait until enough vehicles had departed and created space for us. Finally, approaching 6pm, we were on our way.

We had just under 8 miles to go to Lewes, with the majority off road besides the River Ouse. No great expanse of water, just a narrow stream really. Our track was rutted but fortunately the muddy surface was dry. We cycled as fast as we could and made the Lewes Premier Inn just as darkness fell. I normally try to avoid chains but Premier Inn takes some beating. Friendly staff (the receptionist popped us in an extra large ground floor room so we could just wheel our bikes along), their beds are world famous for their comfort, great hot shower, and a kettle with as much tea, coffee and milk as we wanted. Heaven. We took advantage of their meal deal offer, and were pleasantly surprised by the quality of the food. Not a bad start.

In the morning things went downhill rapidly, we set off at the tail-end of rush hour, perhaps we'd have been wiser to wait a bit longer. The traffic was very heavy, the drivers impatient but the worst thing was the shocking condition of the roads. These were the worst we've seen anywhere in the world, seriously bad. To cheer us up Tom had a treat in store. No, not another mushroom museum but a rail viaduct, and not just any old viaduct, no, we were heading to the Ouse Valley Viaduct.

Completed in 1842, over 1,480 feet long, 96 feet tall with 37 spans, it is said to be the most elegant viaduct in the UK. It connects London to Brighton, but by 1983 it was in need of major renovations. Fortunately it was classified as a Grade 2 Listed Building and works to preserve it took place from March 1996 to September 1999. Today its design attracts the Instagram crowd, a few of whom were posing when we arrived. Stressed by the traffic we weren't in an Insta mood, but Tom got some great shots.

Then it was back on the bikes and onwards to London. Despite cycling into the most densely populated area of the UK we were in for a great ride. We were in the hands of Sustrans, now with the catchy new name, Walk Wheel Cycle Trust, they have created signposted cycle routes throughout the UK, which take us on quiet roads, bridleways, shared paths, even BOATS, (byways open to all traffic). We whizzed along, rarely seeing a car, through parks, across golf courses, besides rivers, endless cycle paths and where we shared with walkers they seemed happy to see us and let us pass. It was all rather wonderful.

By 4pm we had arrived at my sister's. She seemed happy to see us, and we spent a wonderful few days catching up with family and getting quite a few cuddles from my first Grand Niece. I even changed a few nappies!

Then we were off, a week of riding would get us home. We had decided to ride via Letchworth Garden City, as we couldn't face the endless underpasses that Milton Keynes has. All those readers that know Letchworth will now be laughing, yep, here there were even more! Sustrans though got us through. We had a fantastic evening with some wonderful warm shower hosts.

The following day we were back in the countryside cycling through fields and quiet roads to Northampton. We had another night in a Premier Inn, but treated ourselves to a meal and a few beers in another UK institution, Wetherspoons. Renowned for great value food and drinks we fuelled up. We fitted in a couple of visits to Tom's mum who was very happy to see her baby boy, then we had an easy day along another disused railway line to Market Harborough. No Premier Inn, but no surprises to where we ate and downed a beer or two, we are watching the pennies now.

Over the next few days we made our way to familiar turf. Tom managed to find a super steep hill in an area known for being flat. We arrived in Yorkshire, and spotted the cooling towers that dominate the skyline near Doncaster, then we were in North Yorkshire, and just about home.

The final two nights we stayed with friends, firstly with my long-time mountain biking buddies Anna and Julian, and their family at Loand House Cottages. They led us off when we left and have followed our journey online since then, so we couldn't go home without seeing them. Our penultimate day was a ride with Anna around the Rosedale Railway, an area I have ridden so much and where Tom spent the last few years of his working life with the National Park, running the Land of Iron project. We stopped for lunch at the iconic Lion Inn at Blakey Ridge, had a mini adventure exploring underground at Reeking Gill, a massive drain that was restored as part of the Land of Iron project. Once Anna and I had gotten over the shock we loved it, I mean what is better than hiking down a dam wall, crawling uphill through a drainage tunnel and a final scramble back to the old railway line. The work done to stop the line deteriorating is clearly working, and having an expert as our guide, Anna and I enjoyed admiring the old ironstone kilns and learning so much more about the landscape. It's a fascinating area and definitely worth a visit.

Then it was goodbye to Anna and another night with friends, Paddy and Linda, volunteers who due to their expertise and extensive knowledge of the area and the Ironstone mines, were an awesome help to Tom and the Land of Iron Project.

Then Sunday dawned, we were riding home. Back to where we set off 1,751 days ago. For those that don't know Rosedale is at the bottom of a steep sided valley, the only way out was up! The hill was long and steep, 33% at times, I lost traction at the steepest point and pushed, somehow Tom stayed on and powered up.

The ride took us over the beautiful but desolate North York Moors, the tail end of Hurricane Dave was blowing us along, with a few heavy downpours, even hailstones, to keep it interesting. Mainly though the sun shone. Heading in the opposite direction were participants of the Dale's Divide, a 400 mile bikepacker coast to coast from Arnside to Scarborough and back again. They had had to endure the full force of Hurricane Dave yet still had the energy to say hi as they battled up 33% hills. We shouted a greeting to one of the riders, later realising it was a friend, doh!

We dropped into Grosmont, and before we tackled the 25% climb out of there, called in for snacks at the oldest surviving co-op in the UK. There was another Dale's Divide rider here, like us grabbing a snack, we didn't exchange names, but if you read this, we hoped you survived and you have definitely inspired me to hopefully give it a go next year.

We both made the climb, then just a final few miles to yet another disused railway line. We joined the old Scarborough to Whitby line just outside of Whitby at the Larpool Viaduct. A lifetime ago I'd helped raise funds for its restoration, boy were we happy to see it. From here we had under 20 miles to go. We flew past Robin Hood’s Bay, onwards to Ravenscar, the village that never was. Some guy thought it would be a great spot for a seaside holiday village, started laying out the streets, when someone pointed out to him that yes it was near the sea, but to reach it would require climbing equipment and that was the end of that!

Here we were greeted by a group of friends. A stop for a coffee and cake was deemed essential, then the very last few miles, we didn't stop at the Hayburn Wyke, where Tom and I got married on the beach (more of a mad hike with wellies than your usual beach wedding) then home. We took a turn around Ridge Green, were greeted by more friends and that was it, our round the world trip was over. Nothing for it but a trip to the pub. If you watched our departure video, you'll understand when I say Brown Legs Richard’s legs are still more tanned than Tom's.

We aren't quite finished. We will update in a few weeks about how we feel, our future plans and just what kit survived the trip. For now, just thank you all for following along on our ride.

Homeward bound

Day 1,735