Day 425

Island hopping

After a few days lazing at Qualicum Bay we had a choice explore more of Vancouver Island or try another island entirely. As Vancouver Island is surrounded by small islands we were spoilt for choice. However, just a short ride up the coast we could pick up a ferry to Denman Island and from there catch another ferry to Hornby Island, sorted! A slight delay whilst Tom recovered from hurting his back whilst handing me toffees then we were off!

We had originally planned a night on Denman but our delay meant we could only cycle across it as we had a campsite booked on Hornby. At just over 51 square kilometres it wouldn’t take us long. Just over 1,100 people live here year-round and we were keen to see what it was like.

The island had been home to the indigenous population, they called it Sla-Dai-Aich, meaning ‘Inner Island’. The European explorers renamed it Denman after the Admiral Joseph Denman, who I’m sure was a perfectly decent chap, but slowly Canada is starting to accept that the original name is worthy option. The island has 4 provincial parks, and the western part of the island is covered by a dense forest of Douglas Fir, Western Hemlock and Red Cedar. The few roads on the island are surrounded by woodland, it was a stunning ride on quiet roads. We arrived in plenty of time to catch the ferry to Hornby Island, most of the cars which were on the ferry to Denman were in the queue. Clearly Hornby was the place to be!

Hornby is just over half the size of Denman but clearly was more developed with many stunning homes overlooking the ocean. It has just over a 1,000 permanent residents, many of them artists, remote workers, the retired and those who just want a slower pace of life. Like Denman it was renamed, originally called ‘Ja-Dai-Aich’ or outer island, it was once renamed Isla de Lerena by Spanish explorers then the British renamed it in honour of another admiral, hence Hornby.

We were staying at Tribune Bay, famous for its sandy beach and calm water due to the said bay. Well it was just wonderful. There was a fantastic co-op which reminded Tom and I of Yates of Malton  in the UK. It sold pretty much everything a resident or visitor would need. We spent our time swimming, cycling, walking, kayaking and just lazing with a book. We extended our stay to 4 days from 2. Pretty much all our fellow campers were doing the same. Cycling around both islands reminded Tom and I of quiet country lanes from home. Just like home there were many places with a honesty box and stall at the entrance to their property selling produce they had made or grown. We had as much fresh fruit we could eat as there were plums, apricots and blackberries a plenty just waiting to be picked. It was idyllic, and I could only agree with the lady I chatted to, after many visits holidaying with her children she decided to retire there, as it is simply a fantastic place to live.

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Day 418